First off welcome!!
To answer your question i don’t see a lot of folks using molds and cf. however i’m sure with fusion 360 u could create a negative cut from stls and print some molds...
Now where to start-
Read everything in this forum. The info is there, it’s just well scattered.
Weight . . . This is a heavy bird, if you know quads then you know weight is your enemy. Most builds are roughing in around 3kg to 3.5kg. Mine is just around 3kg with a 5ah battery . . . flight time is around 15 min (I used aluminum hardware). Most fly with a smaller battery for something like 5-10 min flight time.
Use ecalc. . . do your math so you know what kind of motor prop size you want. You can run the stls in your slicer software to get volume/density/weight to see how much the craft weights before you even start. Important to figure out your prop sizes and motors, I think they recommend 13 or smaller but I went 15 for more lift. There are trade offs, make sure you understand them.
Flight controller . . . For flight controller, the current config doesn't have a lot of room. I would say a 20x20 stack will fit well enough and naza V2 or a light should fit fine, but there isn't a lot of room for a power distribution board other fancy gadgets.
Canopy . . . The canopy is not available. Originator has stated he wants to avoid any copyright issues and thus this is no modeled. He mentions that you can buy the canopy on its its own. His parts will fit a standard Inspire 1 canopy set. Now there are other places where someone has put stls of these parts. No i won't link them, but i can tell you they don't work well. I ended up creating my own version.
Cost. . . again do some math. Costs can very but i think i put in about 500 bucks worth of parts. But factor in assembly time, 3d printer issues, print time and setup time. Not including radio/transmitter/googles option? Depending on what your time is worth you could be closer to 800-900 mark. Just keep in mind a refurbed inspire is around 1K.
Experience . . . YMMV. If you're looking for a complete package, this isn’t it. Yes you can build an autonomous flying, waypoint homing, OSD, gps locking, mobile camera platform, long range monster but there is something to be said about a 2nd hand Mavic and what you get for that price point if you want that kind of reliance.
If you are looking for a really cool build, learning, something to show off, testing platform, upgrade later, then yeah its a great design. I have learned more about what my printer is capable of building this thing than anything else.
Even better, if you bust this . . . you just print off more parts. You bust a legit inspire, you're out a lot of dough. Take that how you may.
Parts list . . . there is a general parts list. Personally, not a fan of how its organized. There's little description, no links so you have no idea what you need. I've got a list and can upload later (not in a position to do so, now). It should have various links to different components.
Community . . . I notice a lack of responses or speed of responses, so if you need something message me. I'll try and help. Not saying anything bad, just observing a lot of folks building other frames. Most folks I see are actively trying to print out Mavic clones (another ingenious design) and not many want a craft as large as an inspire.
Camera Platform . . . there's nothing integrated in the STL regarding how to mount a camera or gimbal. You'll need to either get the canopy from DJI and or rig up something yourself. Remember a camera will add weight and shift the cg.
Tips and tricks:
I would not use an Arduino. I'm sure it works fine but i feel a couple of diodes with limit switches is extraordinarily simpler.
I would not use the recommended servo. Get a bigger servo, one with metal gears. You're not really trading off weight here but the extra reliance is a good thing. Look up on YouTube how to modify a servo to for 360 degree operation. Its super easy. Alternatively I heard some folks use a winch motor (like a 3-5 turn one, off an rc sailboat)
If you got a good printer, look at printing the acme screw and use the brass nut instead. Will save on weight.
Not a fan of the flex coupling between the servo to the screw. Its just a couple of set screws. Look at 3d printing an integrated method to hold the servo to the acme screw. You should not need to worry about flex if everything is lining up. Besides, I think this contributes much to the machine sagging in rest position
there is no integrated method (without the original canopy) to mount a camera and gimbal. You need to rig up a camera and gimbal attachment.
I added air holes to the feet, as I don't think there's enough airflow to the ESCs
The hardware can contribute up to 900grams - look at different hardware like AL to save weight (more expensive)
Nylon bearings vs. Metal needle bearings. You could even print these.
High GPS mast. I prefer the GPS to be high, its a lot easier to lock on the sats in this configuration
Wire management. Dry fit and actuate the nacelles with all your wires before you solder. You'll find the T connection closest to the body narrows down significantly and will make it tough to run wires to. There is always the option to run the wires outside.
Check your CG. . . after you build and before you lock down the nacelles, run some fishing line to all four motors (and battery), place the air frame on a hook and move the nacelles forward or back till the craft levels off. Then drill out your set holes.
Cutting carbon fiber is dangerous. Make sure you use proper PPE. To cut a lot of the rods, I printed out rigs and jigs to hold my pieces and cut using a Dremel. Again, don't breathe this stuff in, its bad . . . like real bad.
Personally, I love this airframe. There's a lot to be said about racing drones and its utilitarian look but the inspire is just so pretty to look at. So even if i have a lot of gripes, I have zero regrets.
