Author Topic: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera  (Read 3824 times)

Offline foldingllama

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #45 on: January 25, 2019, 08:28:15 AM »
I've decided the best way to go is to cut the hole in the front of the middle bit to the size of the camera board, I'll then draw up a shallow box with rubber mounting points.
The shallow box will bolt under the front which will allow the camera board to sit almost flush with the inside.
The storm32 board will then have all it's header pins removed and will stand off the inside of the middle part as high as the lid will allow.
This will give me the gimbal holder, camera board mounting point and drop the camera board away from the gimbal board all in one go. I might add some cooling ducts to the box to direct some air up over the boards.

My plan has always been to mount the GPS and receiver at the rear above the sonar board hopefully addressing the centre of gravity issues I envisage I'll have later on.

Kananga, did you take a look at this tread: http://diyrc.co.uk/mavic-build-diaries/finally-it-works!/30/
He's using a HMBGC micro controller for the gimbal: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/HMBGC-Micro-Brushless-Gimbal-Controller-Driver-w-Sensor-Russian-Firmware-V2-2-21290/1682673588.html

Probably not an option. You find it here with more information: https://www.amazon.com/Kingzer-Brushless-Gimbal-Controller-Firmware/dp/B00VP023CW
> Brushless gimbal controller size: 50 * 30mm
So still pretty big...

They all seem to be 5*5cm: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Micro+Brushless+Gimbal+Controller&_sacat=0

So getting rid of the case will be the only way to go...

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #46 on: January 25, 2019, 11:23:55 AM »
Im all gimbaled out, been reading for 3 days, put over 30 hours in lol.

The first one you point to is a 2 axis gimbal using the dys mini which as I've already said needs an extra board on top to get 3 axis, by the time you've made it 3 axis it costs over 130 and would be too thick to fit.

The second one that's in that same thread uses a storm32 that we have,

The third one you mentioned at 50x30mm is still the same dys board.

The only boards that would be suitable have been discontinued, there is a very expensive one still available that is $280 but I've not looked into it too much, it's in a plastic case but at that price it would have to be a gold case for me to buy it. It's the new dys mini I think.
There are numourous fancy mobius, foxeteer, split etc gimbals out there which some must use a smaller board but I'm not buying a gimbal especially a $300-800 one just for the board. This mavic clone is a cheap bit of fun for me if I want really decent stuff I've many other alternatives in my fleet that will do a better job.

I hear what you're saying about the camera but I think if you do that you'll never add the camera. It needs wiring into the system (mine is wired to the fc and the battery, yours needs a fpv transmitter as well I think) then the multi will need balancing quite well which might mean you need to move existing stuff round. It's going to be a pain ripping all the electrics out of a multi you've got flying to start again from this point in order to add a camera. I would (and am) go the other way, fit the gimbal etc, if the board is wrong or the gimbal doesn't work then fine I'll lock it up and use it as a fixed camera until I sort issues out but at least it's not having to be stripped.

The mavic is not a fun fly machine, it's characteristics are biased around it being an ariel camera platform, it's great for taking pics but rubbish for being flown around for fun, a mavic owner doesn't fly it, they tell it where to point the camera and the electronics flys it for them. We are more involved with having to fly ourselves but it's going to be very boring just using it in los at close quarters, I'm not even sure they can be banked, they certainly don't do acrobatics too well.

If you want a bit of fpv fun get a cheap 250 kit, I got one a few years ago from allied express that came with everything except receiver and battery and cost around 30-40 to the door.
For me the mavic and by association this clone, is a camera platform so not having a camera on it sort of makes it pointless for me as I've another 30 multis that fly better.

Each to their own though and your entitled to build yours how you want :)

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #47 on: January 25, 2019, 07:18:49 PM »
First version looks ok, I need to change some details but it will work. I cut the back off to make the front inline to see if the board still fits and it does so I'll redraw it tonight.

Offline foldingllama

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #48 on: January 26, 2019, 10:32:58 AM »
First version looks ok, I need to change some details but it will work. I cut the back off to make the front inline to see if the board still fits and it does so I'll redraw it tonight.

Nice solution! Makes me doubt again

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #49 on: January 26, 2019, 11:15:45 AM »
Im very indecisive, i might change it again, I really would like both boards inside, I'm gonng to have another look.
You don't have a camera board to hide so in your shoes I would put the gimbal controller where I'm putting mine.
My worry with my current solution is even though it's only 7.5mm deep the additional box is dropping the camera another 7.5mm which is somthing I'm trying to reduce. I want my camera tucked under the nose not stuck out below the bottom of the base.
It needs another look at, I wish i had bought my gimbal motors earlier as it's difficult to guesstimate this stuff without the gimbal.
I'm wondering a spacer between the base and the middle is the answer, it would allow more battery space and room to put the camera board in the base. Looking at pictures of the mavic pro, pro 2 and pro 2 zoom it seems like the base height goes deeper the newer the machine.

If you need anything drawing up you only need to ask ;)
« Last Edit: January 26, 2019, 11:56:21 AM by Kananga »

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #50 on: January 27, 2019, 02:14:17 AM »
I've got to make my mind up at some point so for now I'm going to work on fitting both boards in the nose. The pics show the storm32 on top of the camera board and they fit, in the pics they are touching but if I mount the gimbal board as high as it will go there is a good space between the boards.

This allows me to have the gimbal as high as I can.

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #51 on: January 30, 2019, 05:57:41 AM »
I've had a couple of set backs that's putting me on hold for a week or 2.

When I was looking for cameras I chose the split 2 because it best suited my needs and with no other excuse than I just had a dumb moment I didn't bother thinking about ordering an fpv transmitter. I think with the runcam having built in fpv my brain made a quick assumption that the transmitter was also built in. When it came I did note there was a lack of an ariel but didn't think anymore about it until I started replying to a question on here the other day and realised.
I've ordered this one https://m.banggood.com/Eachine-VTX02-Super-Mini-5_8G-40CH-200mW-FPV-Transmitter-p-1114204.html?rmmds=myorders

Another hold up is again another dumb mistake, after pulling the fc apart I've lost a couple of the mounting bolts and here's the funny bit, I didn't realise at first they were plastic so I spent 30 minutes combing the floor with a magnet until I tested one I still have and realised lol. Small nylon bolts is somthing I've just not really used in quantity before so i dont have many in the sparex box but as the original was plastic I thought I should replace like for like and avoid any further silly accidents by using metal ones as a replacement.
I've ordered a set just because lol, https://m.banggood.com/180pcs-M3-Nylon-Black-Spacers-Screw-Nut-Hex-M-F-Stand-off-Assorted-Kit-Box-p-1000806.html?rmmds=myorders

Lastly and on a more serious note, I have a wanhou duplicator i3 v2 and printing abs in a room that has no heating has been a steep learning curve. I have the machine fully enclosed and run the heated bed at 116'c, I would actually even like it slightly higher but it maxes out at 120'c anyway. I use a glass bed on top of the standard wanhou bed that has their build tack sheet still installed. I use an abs slurry on the glass bed, I've tried everything else with no luck although I have just ordered another pei sheet even though I admit I'm not sure why as I couldn't get any adhesion on the last one I bought, anyway, with all those layers the surface of the build platform is anything up to 10' less than the machine thinks it is or should be which is why it's set so high.
Now I have my own rituals like you all have, I pre heat the bed to around 88' and put my slurry on. I then set it to heat at the max of 120', I've found it's the only way to achieve 116', if I set it to 116' it will get to about 113' and start going up and down a degree or two without ever reaching the 116' and until it does hit the set temp the machine won't run so I found if I set it to 120' and keep my eye on it I can catch it when it goes over the 116' and set the extruder to warm up which it does in a few minutes. I then set my print off which resets the bed temp to the 116' as set in my slicer. The machine then instantly starts printing.
The issue I've always had is that the bed takes about an hour or more to get to that temp, if it's icy outside or colder it can sometimes even struggle to get near it at all, I used to help it with a heat gun but it burns the slurry so now I find if I circulate the air in the enclosure by blowing on the bed a couple of times it will just get to the 116' and start the print. Once running the temp goes up and down a degree or two often below the 116' but the machine doesn't seem to mind and keeps running.

The point of all this waffle is a serious one but I wanted to get the back story across. I've been thinking about upgrading the heat bed to somthing that will heat up faster and have a higher temp rating or at least somthing with more consistent temperature holding. I found little in the way of anything better than I've already got but did see a few add on power boards for sale that offer a poorly powered heatbed a better power supply. I wasn't sure of the advantage of such a circuit or even if it was the right way forward so I've been searching the net the last couple of days for advice on upgrading the heat bed on my machine but with very poor results, seemingly because the bed seems to be one of the best ones already.

What I did find a lot of is 1000's of stories of these type of machines melting inside and often burning down and in some cases setting fire to the building, Apparently it's because the heat bed takes it's power through the circuit board which have inferior connectors and inadequate board traces so when used the power being sucked through the board is melting the connectors down. Newer machines keep adding better connectors that still kept trying until the boards started burning out instead.

This is an issue thats possible on every printer that powers the bed in this way. Reports come from low temp users doing long prints as well. I've read so many horror stores it's got me really worried because I'm perminatley at max power and often running prints that take over 6 hours so I've looked into the solution which happens to be the same board I said I had found earlier. They are refered to as mosfet boards and the mod is known understandably as the mosfet mod.

The mosfet board bypasses the printer circuit board and supplies the heated bed with power direct from the supply line in the printer. No tracks to melt no connectors to set on fire. The module has a signal wire connector so is still controlled by The printer board.
To that end I've ordered one of these https://m.banggood.com/MOSFET-High-Power-Heated-Bed-Expansion-Power-Module-MOS-Tube-for-3D-Printer-Prusa-i3-Anet-A8A6-p-1356434.html?rmmds=myorders and urge you all go double check how yiur printer gives its power to the bed.

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #52 on: February 01, 2019, 12:22:40 PM »
I thought i had better finish the prop adaptors off so others can use the files but it seems I'm too scared to use the printer now after all the horror stories so it's all on hold until I can fix the printer with the mosfet coming from banggood. If you have the same printer or one of its clones you must do the mosfet mod.

Offline foldingllama

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #53 on: February 01, 2019, 03:07:58 PM »
I thought i had better finish the prop adaptors off so others can use the files but it seems I'm too scared to use the printer now after all the horror stories so it's all on hold until I can fix the printer with the mosfet coming from banggood. If you have the same printer or one of its clones you must do the mosfet mod.

sorry for that problem. good luck with it!!

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #54 on: February 01, 2019, 06:08:53 PM »
Is it any help if I posted the prop adaptor files for you to try, I don't mind reposting with alterations until it's right if you don't mind printing lol. I don't want to hold you up if you were waiting for them otherwise I'll sort them out when the printer is back together.

Offline foldingllama

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #55 on: February 02, 2019, 08:57:06 PM »
Is it any help if I posted the prop adaptor files for you to try, I don't mind reposting with alterations until it's right if you don't mind printing lol. I don't want to hold you up if you were waiting for them otherwise I'll sort them out when the printer is back together.

Yeah, would give it a try. As you've maybe seen in my thread, Quite disappointed that the GPS is not supported anymore in betaflight on the F3 boards...
So I'll fly without GPS I think...

What's wrong with your adaptors? Can't I print and try?

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #56 on: February 02, 2019, 09:00:20 PM »
As I've said, yes, if you want yo print and try I'll tidy up the drawing and post it.

I cant believe you can't use a GPS module on a f3 controller anymore, it's due to the flash size and as the f3 is a racing board they didn't need GPS. I'm hoping my f4 board will be ok.  If you really want to use cleanflight use an older version that did accept it or there's things like inav.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2019, 09:06:26 PM by Kananga »

Offline Kananga

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Re: F4 v2 build 4.1 with camera
« Reply #57 on: February 10, 2019, 12:20:32 PM »
I forgot about the adaptors, sorry. I post through my phone and the files are on my laptop with no internet access. I'll sort it out.

My printer repair bits have come along with a couple bits for the clone. I'm going to mod the printer today and hopefully be back on it tomorrow.

If you have a printer that uses the board to provide power to the heating bed you must do the mosfet mod or you are on a ticking time bomb that will set fire and can set fire to your house. It's a very serious problem most people don't know about until they've got a burnt out printer.