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Topics - Hoochster

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3d Printed Mavic Clone / Naza Build just flips?
« on: April 28, 2017, 08:29:06 PM »
So finally had some time to assemble mine.  Been a bit since I played with anything, so not sure what I have set wrong.  But from what I recall in the past when other controllers did this, it was a PID setting or something.  Not sure on the Naza build what would cause this.   I have checked my props, they seem to be on the proper corners/motors.  They are spinning the proper direction.  But anytime I try to lift off, it tries to flip to the left?  What simple thing am I missing here?  This is a Naza M Lite v1 upgraded to V2 build.  Using a Taranis X9D Plus Radio.

Thanks for any insight.  Gotta be something simple I am forgetting.

3d Printed Mavic Clone / Acetone Vapor Bath
« on: March 10, 2017, 11:06:23 PM »
For those that want a little extra spice to their parts without painting.  You have the option of glossing your parts with acetone.  There are multiple options.  Keeping in mind I am totally new to 3D printing but this is one of the first things I found when I came to the scene as I was making Pokeballs for my son's birthday party and pokemon characters for him.  It beats having to paint and if you use the color of filament you are wanting to paint it anyways, this works out really well. 

DISCLAIMER #1: This isn't expensive, nor is it cheap, so it adds to the hobby, but it is a one time purchase of equipment and then you have to continue to buy acetone obviously.  But it is a choice, you can buy paint, so choose your poison! 

DISCLAIMER #2:  I again, am no expert at any of this, this is stuff I have picked up on the net, and you can ruin a part in a heartbeat doing this, and worse case, you have to reprint your part.  It happens, so just keep that in mind if you venture into this realm.  But once you get the hang of it, which mind you I am haven't 100% gotten the hang of it myself, you will be very pleased with the result.

DISCLAIMER #3:  MOST IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER!!!!! Acetone is flammable, as well as very dangerous to inhale.  If you pursue this project, make sure to do it outdoors and in a well ventilated area.  As well as note, this process involves high heat, make sure of your surroundings around children, as well as yourself.  I don't want anyone burning themselves.  Make sure to use gloves or just be careful when removing the pan if you pursue the process below.  It is toasty!

Onto the process!

Hardware needed:
There are multiple ways to do this, I personally feel with the flammability of acetone, that you need a Steamer-Multi Cooker/Rice Cooker to be safe, mind you I have seen people online do this with a mason jar over a stove.  Again, choose your poison haha, all I can picture is that jar busting on the stove and catching the house on fire.  So I wouldn't recommend it.  Keeping in mind acetone is not something you want to breathe in, so you want to do this outside anyways, even if you did do it on a portable stove outside, heating up a glass jar just doesn't seem safe.  But you can do it whatever way works best for you.  I am just giving you my recommended way.

I went with a Multi Cooker, for the main reason it was readily available at WalMart, my most hated place to go, but in my small town, unfortunately the only choice without having to drive far away or ordering something and waiting on something.  Some have used a Rice Cooker, but most of them have vent holes in the lid, so I would think you need to seal them up in some fashion to keep the vapor from escaping.  Neither method is that expensive.  Mind you I did go with the biggest Multi Cooker wally world had due to I wanted it to fit pretty much the largest part I would be able to print in my printer.

Don't know if that is the exact one I got, it was the largest they had, and it cost me about $35 US.  They had a smaller one for about $25.  Rice cookers you can get anywhere from about $15 on up. 

I also picked up from Amazon, a sheet of Teflon material and cut some circles out of it that were a hair smaller than the bottom part of the pan, think I got a couple out of a 12x12 sheet:

This keeps the prints from sticking to anything. 

Then you just need to pick up regular Acetone from the paint section at any hardware/Walmart wherever you choose store, not nail polish remover, actual Acetone.

Basically the process is simple and straightforward, I take no credit for this, it is stuff I pulled off YouTube videos and online websites.  If you have any rough spots on your parts, I suggest real fine sandpaper to smooth any of that out, I am speaking of just the little burs or anything like that, that you don't want to show up on your glossed part.  After that you pour about 2-3 Tablespoons, no actual measurements done here, of Acetone in the bottom of the cooker, probably actually more, varies per part you are using.  Then you put the pan with the Teflon sheet in the cooker on top of the acetone.  I don't use the handle attached.  I actually use it along with something else, usually a Flathead screwdriver that I open the Acetone can up with to get the pan out with when done.  Anyways, once in the pan, put your part in the middle, just make sure it isn't touching the sides, and not touching any liquid.  If doing multiple parts, it is extremely important that none of the parts are touching each other, when the process starts, if anything touches, they bond together and are bed buddies for life! :)  I typically only mess with one big part at a time, if it is for sure small parts and nothing will tip over and touch, I might risk it.  Next, you will put the lid on, and turn it on to about 250 Degrees.  This is the guessing game you have to just kind of get the hang of, I usually run it for about 25-30 seconds give or take, you should be able to see inside your part start to gloss over and steam start hitting the lid.  Depending on the part, mostly infill etc, you might be able to go longer if you really want it smoothed over, but if it is low infill then you have to be careful.  Once at about 30 seconds, I usually turn the cooker off.  Leave the lid on for another 20 seconds or so, then you can take the lid off.  Be careful not to breathe in the fumes.  It will be HOT.  Next, carefully using the handle, and screwdriver or weapon of choice, or gloves for that matter, lift the pan out and set it aside.  DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT touch the part.  It will be wet.  It must dry.  It will still eat away at the top layer while it dries.  If you touch it, you will fingerprint it like wet concrete.  Be careful pulling it out as well, it will possibly try and slide on that Teflon mat.  I usually just set the pan and all aside with the part in it to let dry for about 30 mins to an hour. 

Once dry, you can pick it up and it should be good to go and you can marvel in your new glossy part.  I suggest experimenting on some other scrap parts or something first to see how things turn out.  Like I said, you have the one time purchase of the cooker, after that it is just a matter of purchasing acetone as you need to.  Which isn't that expensive at all. 

An example of the goods:
On the left is a glossed part, on the right is an original part, pictures don't serve it justice, but you can get the idea.

I hope it helps some!


Mavic Build Diaries / Hoochster's Naza M Lite Build
« on: March 06, 2017, 10:16:30 PM »
Figured I would go ahead and start my page of my build.  I am a LONG way from ready, but I have started my prints, just have 3 more items to print, am awaiting to see if the front arms and middle section are going to be changed out for that new plunger pieces.  If so then I will print them.  They will be in Red.  I never could find some Grey filament, at least in the brands I was looking for.  I am VERY new to 3D Printing, and was recommended by the guy that got me into it to stick with Hatchbox and Sainsmart Filamaent, so those are what I was trying to find.  Might have been able to branch out.  And maybe with feedback from you guys, you could tell me some other brands that are safe.  Anyways, I will try and document my journey, and show my pics as I can, as well as links to my purchased items that will hopefully help others, I know it definitely would help me.  Ask any questions, I am by no means an expert at ALL, but will try and help out, and I am sure with others help they will chime in and answer anything I can't, which no doubt will be a lot haha. 

I do want to give a big shout out to CDR for his efforts and time and patients in this project.  I know there are a few others out there that have done a 3D print/design of the Mavic, but this by far seems to be the most well designed and thought out by far.  So throw him a beer, or anything you can, to help out with Filament costs and purchases to help further his cause and keep us playing. 

DISCLAIMER:  I said this once already, but will say it again haha, I by no means am an expert, I composed the parts below from what I have read on here and my understanding.  That does not mean it is correct.  Order and put things together at your own risk.  I am here to try and help, and hopefully do help.  But am not responsible if you put things together and you fly into your neighbors window and hit their Chihuahua!  Good luck, and happy building!

Now, on to my prints thus far.  You can see my Album, that I will update as I print the new items, and/or replace items if they get replaced here:

All parts were printed per CDR's instructions at 30% infill except I did the Arms and the leg pieces at 60%.  I don't know a damn thing about 3D Printing settings just yet so don't ask me to try and explain it to ya haha, I understand infill ha, but that's about as far as my knowledge goes lol.  But I did set the TOP pieces to print at High Quality, just to see if they would turn out any different.  I honestly don't know what settings it changes.  But they did turn out nice.  I plan on printing them at Medium like I print EVERYTHING else which turns out just fine, and compare the two. 

I print on a Flashforge Creator Pro 2016 Edition if it helps.

Top Pieces - Took approximately 3 1/2 hours to print at High Quality

Nose Piece - Took approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes to print

Naza LED Holder - Took approximately 40 minutes to print

Back Feet - Took approximately 35 minutes to print

Front Feet - Took approximately 45 minutes to print

Back Arms - took approximately 2 1/2 hours to print - Might get re-designed, not sure yet, if they redo with the plungers.

Front Arms - took approximately 3 1/2 hours to print

Battery Tray - Took approximately 45 minutes to print

Gimbal Holder - Took approximately 1h to print

Catch Clip - Took approximately 25 minutes to print

Middle Section - Took approximately 3 1/2 hours to print

Bottom Base - Took approximately 3h 15m to print

All Pieces - I forgot to include the front feet, but they are there in the other photo's! :)

Test Assembly

Putting the feet and motors together:

Extending the Power and Signal Wire on the Arms

That's all I have for pics thus far.   

Now onto the parts that I have ordered.
Naza M Lite Flight Controller
- $59.99 US, comes with GPS and free shipping, mind you slow dog shipping.  But hey, you gots to do what you gots to do.

Power Distribution Board
Battery and Motors
I ordered from  You need 2 CW motors, and 2 CCW motors.  They have ESC's built in, so makes the setup nice and compact.  If you are in the states, I highly recommend on the battery/batteries, however many you order, when you go to add them to the cart, change it to the GLOBAL warehouse.  It drops the price of the batteries down a little if I recall correctly, but keeps everything shipping from the same spot, motors and all, and will make your shipping cheaper and faster.  Instead of motors shipping from Hong Kong and Batteries shipping from the US.  Trust me.  It is better.  Only 1 shipping fee, and it shows up quicker. 

Black Widow 2208 1200KV With Built-In ESC CCW - Need 2 to fly

Black Widow 2208 1200KV With Built-In ESC CW - Need 2 to fly

Multistar LiHV High Capacity 3000mAh 3S 10C Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack
Props and LEDs
from eBay.  seemed to be the cheapest place.

2 Pair Black 8330 Quick-release Folding Propellers Screw Prop For DJI Mavic Pro

WS2812B 2*2 4-Bit Full Color 5050 RGB LED Lamp Panel*2+4-Bit+Full+Color+5050.TRS0&_nkw=WS2812B+2*2+4-Bit+Full+Color+5050&_sacat=0
.  I already have a Taranis X9D Plus, so using the RX the CDR was building out for originally was a bonus for me.  So I ordered the same one, unfortunately, if you have something different, you might have to work with him to get the measurements to him and have him re-design you a nose piece to fit something else.  For instance, if you have a Spektrum type radio, then you obviously need a DSM2 RX.  Someone else was going that route, and asked if he could try and design something for the. Orange RX610.  Might have to ask if he has had time to look into that.  But for this build out, I will go with what I used, since that is what I have.  But make sure you don't buy this just cuz it is what I used.  You have to go with what type of radio you have.
$26.50 at the time I bought it, but Amazon is bad about price changes.  Might even look on eBay or wherever to find it for the price you want it for. 

Believe it or not, I had a hard time finding the screws/nuts to put this thing together.  M3 screws aren't common, at least in the US.  I ended up going to eBay for them.  I am sure I could have done assortment packs from Amazon or something, but figured this was my best bet to get what I needed for cheaper.  By no means am I saying this is correct, just going by what I have read is used.  The links below might expire, but you will get the idea of what to look for in case they have.

According to CDR, we need:
7 of 3mm x 25mm (top / front legs / rear legs / back battery mount)

4 of 3mm x 40mm (body) - Cost the most due to shipping

1 of 3mm x 20mm (front battery mount)

Lock Nuts

Plungers - Needed for the Arms and Base, need 4 of them. I would order some extra since you only pay shipping the one time.  I ordered 20 just to have some on hand.  If you are in the UK, I recommend ordering the ones CDR ordered, much cheaper off eBay.

18AWG Wire to extend Power
I am sure you can find this in smaller rolls, I do multiple projects, so this worked for me:

On to some Assembly:
First thing I did once I FINALLY got my v1 NAZA M Lite flight controller in after a month of waiting ha, was to flash it from V1 to a V2 controller.  Thanks to all the help on here plus google, I managed to get it done quite painlessly.  I will try and tell you how I did it for those that might need to follow the same steps.  I was using a Windows 10 Machine, so if that helps you any.  If you are not working with a V1 NAZA, then none of this pertains to you.

First, I went ahead and grabbed everything I needed, and I will tell you if it is ok to go ahead and install things.  I just didn't run everything right away. 

Download the Naza-M Lite Assistant Software v1.00 - I INSTALLED THIS, JUST DIDN'T RUN IT YET

Download the DJI WINDOWS Driver - Definitely needed, and can be installed right now if you so wish.

Download the Naza-M Assistant Software v2.20 - I INSTALLED THIS, JUST DIDN'T RUN IT YET

Download the Naza Upgrade Tool v1.0.1 - I INSTALLED THIS, JUST DIDN'T RUN IT JUST YET

Next, I hooked up my battery temporarily to my flight controller as well as the LED board so that I could plug the USB cable into the computer:

Now, if you are running Windows 10, like me, and need to get the drivers to work properly, you will need to disable Windows from enforcing driver signatures.  So you might have to follow the steps from here.  I won't document them, just for the sake of saving space, and being as it is all documented here.  If you installed the drivers above, then you can just follow along in the following link, it explains it quite well:

Once you get your Device Manager to show the DJI Driver for your USB Com port, then you are ready to proceed with the upgrade.  You can watch the video on the website, just to see how the process will go, but basically, you will first need to make sure you run the Naza Upgrade 1.0.1 program you downloaded.  It will basically bypass any attempts for the Naza Assistant to phone home and download an improper update that will upgrade it to the wrong build.  It acts as a proxy keeping it local.  Once you have it running in the background and it says SERVICE ACTIVATED at the bottom, you may proceed by making sure your NAZA is plugged into your USB port and then running the RED DJI NAZAM Lite Assistant 1.00.

Once you run this, it should recognize the NAZA Flight controller and recognize that it is running older firmware, and then immediately prompt you to upgrade to newer firmware.  I must say, that when I first did this, and didn't have the driver set properly, it was prompting me to register.  So I don't know for fact if yours will do that right away before the upgrade or not, if so, then you may need to go ahead and create your DJI account, just click on Register if you don't already have an account, and proceed to creating one.  Everything is safe for doing so.  Then log into the account and then it should proceed.  Once you get the upgrade screen, all you have to do is click Upgrade at the bottom.  It will go through the process, which only takes just about 30 seconds to a minute.  Then it is complete.  It will prompt you to power cycle your device.  You can click OK, and then just unplug the power from the flight controller and plug it back in. 

You are now ready to close out the 1.00 Assistant as well as the Naza-Upgrade app.  And you can run the DJI NAZAM Assistant v2.20 safely now.  It should come up with the login screen.  If you haven't registered your account you, now is a good time to do so.  Then use those credentials to log in.  Once logged in, you can click on the Upgrade icon and verify you are now on v4.02 of the firmware.  It will probably give you warnings about calibration as well as letting you know about a newer version of firmware out.  You can ignore both of those.  The calibration is due to you not having other items from the flight controller hooked up yet, and we can't upgrade to any newer firmware due to it not being compatible with v1 of our controller.  But the good news is you now have a v1 controller with the same capabilities of a much higher dollar v2 controller!  PAT ON THE BACK! :)

So far, that is the parts I have ordered.  I am not attesting that this is all you need, nor am I saying it is all the EXACT parts you need.  I went with what I have seen/learned on here, and am hoping I ordered the proper stuff.  So order at your own risk heh.  Hopefully by me linking in here, CDR or others can skim through it and confirm one way or another, and I will clean it up if it is incorrect so you guys don't order something you don't need.  I left off stuff like Sonar and a separate GPS being as this build doesn't use Sonar and comes with a GPS.  One thing we do need is screws, which I still have to figure out myself.  Once I determine that, I will post what I ended up using myself.  Also, once CDR finishes testing his plunger arms, and I find out where to order those from I will post links for that. 

I will also post links as I start putting it together as well as videos of maiden flights etc.  Hopefully it helps some and not hinders ya!  Any questions or suggestions, by all means speak up.  I am just a newbie and completely open to comments.  I want to learn as well. 

Thanks for all CDR does. 


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